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When Andy Shrensker took his job as executive chef at Mihalis Chophouse almost five months ago, he made some changes. The kitchen was rearranged to his liking and the menu was completely overhauled. The result has meant a lot of attention for Mihalis lately, meaning the restaurant known as Dogtown’s best kept secret may be losing that status soon. Shrensker talked with us about the Mihalis philosophy and what keeps him going through the long, hot days in the kitchen.
As a chophouse, Mihalis specializes in bone-in meats. What’s the big deal about the bone?
It’s not necessarily the bone; bone doesn’t actually have any flavor. The more cuts there are, the more open flesh there is, the more flavor can escape. So when you have a steak that’s been cut off the bone, cut to size, you’re looking at three, four, maybe even five cuts on that steak. So, that’s five different places you now have to sear shut to keep all that flavor in. When you’re dealing with a bone-in product, you’re dealing with one to two less cuts, so there’s less chances for the flavor to escape. It takes longer to cook it on the bone, but the juices, fat and flavor stay in the meat. The end result is a better tasting, juicier, nicer piece of meat.
Why should people choose this chophouse when dining out?
The obvious egotistical answer is because I think we do everything right. That’s why I work here. From the service staff, to the hostess, to the bartender and the cooks in the kitchen, we all take what we do very seriously. The staff’s very knowledgeable all around. I think we’re one of the best restaurants in the city; we don’t take short cuts. I think the total dining experience is what makes Mihalis. Also, we’re the only chophouse in town. A lot of people don’t like dealing with the bone-in meats because they’re trying to deal with volume, get them in, get them out. You’re not going to be in and out in fifteen minutes [here], that’s not what we do.
You do a lot of seasonal items here, and you’re on your third menu since you started. What’s the key to a seasonal menu renovation?
It’s a given talent that I have. My talent is creativity. I’ve always been told that I’m creative and have a good palate, so that allows me to play and try things.
What do you want this place to mean to people?
I want to be known as the best restaurant in town. If you’re not doing it to be the best, why are you doing it? I want people to come here when it’s not a special occasion and know that they’re going to have a very consistent, great product all the time. ‘Consistency kills’ is a saying in the restaurant industry. If you’re great one night and mediocre another night, people aren’t coming back for a third one.
What are the best and worst parts of your job?
Being a chef isn’t a job, it’s a lifestyle. You have to realize that on Thanksgiving, if your family doesn’t eat late, you’re not eating Thanksgiving dinner with them. I guess the best way to look at it is that you work while the rest of the world plays. And if you don’t have a thick skin, a strong backbone and understanding people at home, you’re never going to make it in this industry. The best part? Chefs aren’t chefs for the money. They like to see people enjoy themselves around what they do. If you hear “that’s the best thing I’ve ever eaten”, it’s like a gold medal in the Olympics.
See what it's like inside the kitchen at Mihalis Chophouse.
